Pattern Review: Garden Flower Skirt (#20) Ottobre Design Kids Spring 2010

Pattern: Ottobre Design Kids Spring 2010, Garden Flower Skirt (#20), fabric: Westfalenstoffe organic cotton fabric, Blue On Blue Polka Dots. I'll start this review by saying that I'm in love with this skirt, especially the shape. But, I would have to qualify it as a project for those with advanced sewing skills, or who are willing to learn a few new things (me!). I did break my tip #1 one of Successful Sewing With Patterns list: "don't try to learn too many new things on one garment." I also had a real "make it work" issue with it as well.

I'd like to add that Ottobre Design sewing pattern magazines have patterns geared towards those with intermediate to advanced sewing skills. I chose an advanced pattern, but there are many more easier patterns in the magazine as well.

The Good:

• Beautifully designed skirt
• Ottobre Design has a picture tutorial on their website with detailed instructions for sewing this skirt. This was a huge help as they don't do this with all of their designs. They do claim that a novice can sew this skirt, but I really feel that there are too many "advanced" skills and a novice would be frustrated. I found (and lost) a review on another blog which mirrors my opinion on this.
• It uses an invisible zipper. A very easy zipper to insert. A wonderful way to learn how to insert your first zipper.
• Uses an easy technique for the bottom hem.

Should you make it? Yes! If, you're comfortable with or willing to challenge yourself with the following skills:

• Inserting a zipper (even the easy, peasy invisible zipper is more challenging than an elastic waistband)

• Easing, not to be confused with gathering. This was my biggest challenge with the skirt. Definition of easing from Stitch magazine:
  • When a pattern directs to "ease" or "ease in" you are generally sewing a longer piece of fabric to a shorter piece, or a curved piece to a straight piece. This creates shape in a garment or object without pleats or gathers. To ease the pieces together, pin the ends or notches together evenly (or pin as instructed by the pattern), then pin the pieces together at the center or indicated notch (es). Continue to pin the remaining fabric together, allowing the fabric to bubble evenly as you pin, but making sure that the raw edges match up as m as possible (you will be forcing the excess fabric away from the edge); don't be afraid to use a lot pins, as this will make it easier to ease the pieces neatly. Stitch slowly, smoothing as necessary to ease the pieces together as evenly as possible, being careful not to catch tucks in the seam.
• There are precious little tutorials or photos on the web explaining this process. Above is the best definition I found. Basically, when you gather, you want even little tucks and gathers. When you ease, you want no tucks. This was a very difficult process for me and took much seam-ripping before I got it to the "pretty good" point. Perfect wasn't going to happen. The easing occurs where you attach the skirt to the waistband. TIPS: use a million pins and sew slow as molasses, stopping every few stitches and rearrange the excess fabric. Here is a great photo of how many pins you might have to use to ease in a lot of excess fabric. NOTE: The Ottobre Design directions do not state that you must ease the skirt to the waistband. I'm not sure if they assume you would know that as the skirt clearly isn't gathered. Or I may have cut my pieces incorrectly, but I doubt that as I double-checked all my measurements when I realized they didn't fit together perfectly. But, maybe ...

Small tucks like this can be ironed out

• Understitching: not hard at all, but something that is hard to find a definition for. Here is a nice photo of understitching from the same flickr photostream.

Make it work:

After I finished the skirt and tried it on my daughter, I realized she lost 1 centimeter in her waist between the time I measured her and finished the skirt (about 2 weeks). I should have anticipated this as her 5th birthday is in 4 weeks and my oldest lost her "baby fat" around the same age. She probably gained some height and not weight in that short period. It was a BIG DEAL because this is a fitted yoke waistband with interfacing and NO ELASTIC! And almost-5-year-olds don't have hips to hold up loose waistbands. So, to "make it work" I ended up tacking in some 3/4" elastic to the back portions of the waistband only. I didn't want to lose the shape of the skirt by putting in a full elastic waistband. Also, with the yoke facing and interfacing, there was too much bulk to take it in on the sides.

This leads me to realize that one should never, ever make waistbands without elastic for young children. If you pour so much time and effort into making a lovely garment for your child you risk them growing out of it within weeks by not doing so. I will certainly be adding elastic to the back of any waistband I make for my girls from now on if the pattern doesn't already call for it. And, think about it, even children's clothing manufacturers have figured this one out, don't most children's jeans come with the adjustable elastic on the inside of the waistband now? This development has been most helpful for getting a good fit for my girls and I wistfully wish that idea had been in use when I was a teenager (I used, gasp, safety pins to keep my pants up!).

Now, I know you're all noticing that the waistband appears not to line up on the top of her skirt from the above picture. This is actually a result of not being able to turn the corner out far enough on one side. Alas, I gave all my knitting needles to my sister and I have no chopsticks in the house. I desperately need to purchase a point turner and after I do it should line up nicely. Although, I do anticipate that she'll usually be wearing her top not tucked in, as in the photo below, so I'm not too worried.

My First French Seam:

Lastly, I tried out French seams for the side seams of the skirt. I do not have a serger and I've always hated how "homemade" zigzag finished seams look. I used this tutorial from Oliver + S and I have to say that not only do French seams look classy and expensive, they are ridiculously easy to make. And, they use less thread than the old zigzag finished seams.

After all that I went through to make this skirt I will definitely make it again. Every bit was a learning experience and made me a better seamstress in the end. I'm in love with the look and design of the skirt. But I will make it with elastic in the back portions of the waistband from the start.

Comments

[christina]

So very true about elastic waistbands! I have a skinny three year old and those bits of elastic I sneak in are about the only things that hold up her clothes most days. Thank you for reviewing this skirt as it's on my to-do list and I was wondering about the fit.

[milene-micoton]

funny ! we call it "couture anglaise" in France !!!
very nice skirt indeed ...

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